||Disclaimer: I am not a spokesperson for the US Coast Guard or ABYC. For an official interpretation of regulations or standards you must contact the US Coast Guard or other organization referenced.. More.....|
Rebirth of a 1972 18' Sea Ray 190 I/O
Other things done to restore and upgrade:
I threw out the old rear seats and built new ones. I had cushions made by a professional upholstery shop. The old and the new.
I spent the time when I could not work on the boat collecting materials and planning how to proceed. Wire, connectors, heat shrink tubing, dielectric grease, etc. Also, hoses for the fuel system. I took the tank out, and it is actually in good shape. It's a Tempo roto-molded Polyethylene tank. Someone had replaced the original aluminum tank. But they didn't change any hoses or fuel fittings. It was all SAE J30 from the 70's. They are all being replaced with USCG Type A1-15 J1527 hose and new metal fittings.
I developed a plan. I started at the bow and worked my way aft. The first thing was to take the tank out so I could access the bow area, and get to the wiring. I took off the old bow light. It was really trashed. It looks like it got too hot and melted the lenses. Plus that, whoever last installed it used wire nuts! That's nuts. Until the mid 1980's the USCG banned wire nuts. They only took them out of the regulation because of de-regulation during the President Reagan administration, and the industry no longer used them. ABYC, and other international standards still ban the use of wire nuts on boats. They are too susceptible to corrosion, water intrusion and loosening. Below; the old, the new, the new LED light.
I also took out the old fuel fill fitting. The cap was frozen in place and couldn't be opened. The photos below are the new locking fuel fill with a plastic top and metal body. Note the ground wire. The third picture is the fuel vent and hose. I used all USCG Type A1-15 fuel hose throughout. This hose meets USCG, SAE J1527 and ISO 7840 standards. I used all new stainless steel clamps.
The tank needed cleaning both inside and out. I emptied out the gas (about five gallons, 19 L). I cleaned the outside. Then I Installed a new fuel gauge sender. The sender is a WEMA inductive type rather than the older arm and float type. They are much more accurate and much less sensitive to the sloshing of the fuel. The last photo shows the vent, fill and fuel pick up. The fuel pick up has an anti-siphon valve. I removed it, cleaned it, checked to see if it was working, and re-installed it.
Before installing the tank I pressure tested it. This is very simple to do. Before installing any hose I sealed the vent, fill, and fuel pick up with duct tape. Using a battery driven air pump for inflating tires, and a needle for basketballs, I inserted the needle through the tape on the vent. I then taped around the needle to seal it. Then the pump was turned on and soapy solution was sprayed on all the fittings. Soapy test solution is obtainable from RV stores for checking for propane leaks. Do not use dish or household soaps. They may have ammonia in them, which is dangerous. If it bubbles you have a leak. There was a slight leak around a screw on the gauge sender, but tightening the screw a little stopped the leak. Do not overpressure the tank. It only requires a maximum of 3 PSI (21 kPa). Do not go beyond that. You could damage the tank.
After installing the tank and hoses, I again pressure tested the whole fuel system. To do this wrap the vent fitting with duct tape, tape over the fuel fill, and disconnect the fuel hose at the engine. Tape over the end of the hose, and as above, insert the needle and turn on the pressure pump. Then spray soapy solution on all fittings looking for bubbles.
I rebuilt the top of the engine cover, and installed insulation (for sound deadening) on the inside. This is just aluminum foil backed fiberglass insulation used for heating, and air conditioning ducts. It is also rated for marine use. You can get it at any home improvement or hardware store.
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